How to install a bath on bricks: a step-by-step installation guide
Traditional installation of the bath on the legs is not always able to guarantee the stability of the structure. Screw fastening under the action of loads over time begins to loosen, thereby reducing the statics. And because the most reliable installation of cast-iron or steel bowl - on strong supports, made by means of brickwork.
How is the installation of the bath on the bricks and whether it can be done by hand, consider in the article.
Erection of a support under the cast-iron bath
Cast iron baths used throughout Soviet times do not lose their popularity today. And the secret of popularity is easily explained by the high heat capacity of the iron-carbon alloy.
The heavy weight of the product itself, plus the weight of the person in it, with an unreliable support, during operation can provoke a plumbing distortion.And this would entail a violation of the angle, the probability of depressurization of the nodal connections and the difficulty of the normal discharge of waste water into the sewer system.
The bath installed on the bricks can be freely used for taking water procedures to a person with almost any physique, without fear that the walls will bend and the bowl to twist.
As a support structure, you can build:
- two separate platforms;
- several pillars on the sides and corners of the bowl;
- solid brickwork around the perimeter of the product;
Due to the heaviness of the construction, the installation of the cast-iron bath on the bricks is carried out only by two people. Works are carried out in several successive stages.
The specific moments of the installation of a bath of cast iron on a brick base are demonstrated by a selection of photos:
Selection of tools and materials
For the construction of the supporting structure under the cast-iron bath should be prepared:
- concrete brand M: 400;
- sifted river sand;
- tile adhesive;
- tape sealant.
Bricks can be taken white silicate, made of pressed sand, or red burned, made of clay. The main thing is that they do not have voids inside.
Additionally, you will need 20 pieces of bricks for laying on the edges of the bed - excavation.
From the tools you will need:
- Master OK;
- building level;
- capacity for mixing the solution;
- Bulgarian and screws.
To prevent chipped brickwork, protective rubber gaskets can be laid between the bottom of the tub and the upper edge of the erected supports.
Preparation of the basis and carrying out measuring works
Before installing the bath on the bricks, remove the coating from the floor to the base.If necessary, the gap in the floor is cleaned and sealed with cement mortar. If the base floor is uneven, it is better to make the screed in any inexpensive way than to adjust the plumbing position by placing scraps of board or something similar.
It is also necessary to think about how the bowl will be located in relation to plumbing equipment, water sockets, drain and household appliances. Measure in advance the distance from the back end of the tank to the counter wall of the bathroom.
When removing the exact dimensions should clarify:
- the length and width of the product;
- the depth of the bowl (if it changes from one edge to the other, then the depth should be measured on both sides);
- distance from the proposed installation site of the bearings to the ends of the plumbing
When calculating the dimensions of the structure, it should be taken into account that the height of the upper edge of the bath will reach 55–70 cm. Specific height is determined according to the conditions for ease of hygiene in the bathroom for people of any age, build, physical limitations if available.
The height of the front scaffolding will be 17 cm, and the scaffolding located from the opposite side is a couple of centimeters higher. If the bowl is already designed with regard to the slope for unhindered flow, then it is not necessary to lay out racks of different heights.
There is no need to artificially form a bowl slope, because some reduction towards the discharge is structurally inherent.
At the end of the measuring work should be fixed on paper, what distance in centimeters will be from the overflow hole to the bottom of the bowl.
Laying cement mortar
To prepare the solution, the cement mixture is diluted with sand in a 4: 1 ratio.Water is added during mixing until a mixture of creamy-like consistency is obtained.
Having laid out the first row of bricks of one support, until the mortar has acquired the necessary strength, level the masonry using a level. After that, lay out the second row, followed by alignment according to the horizontal, then the third.
At the top level of the support, on the outer sides of the clutch, mortar is laid out on a half-brick in height. For good adhesion of cement mortar to building bricks, it should be allowed to “stand up” to the erected supports for at least the first two days. Otherwise, under the heavy weight of the iron bowl, the newly-built racks will shift or even collapse.
It is also possible to build a solid stand made of bricks. It is constructed between the four legs of the product.
Solid stand is a straight brick platform, equipped with hollows, which conveniently accommodates the bottom of the bowl. When laying out the "pillow", you should also take into account the bias towards the drain.
Installation of siphon equipment
Siphon with overflow is mounted on a bath not yet installed on the supports. For this, the bowl is laid on its side. The drain hole under the siphon is equipped with silicone gaskets and treated with hermetic means.
The bowl is established on the leveled basis, being guided on a level. The outer edge of the bath should be half a centimeter internal. This allows you to prevent water overflow to the floor of the room.
The outlet of the siphon is connected to the sewer pipe. Drain with a sewer sleeve can be connected in two ways:
- hard - involves the use of a plastic pipe, equipped with knees at an angle of 45 ° and 90 °;
- flexible - by means of plastic movable corrugations.
For a tight fit of the outlet to the sewer pipe connecting elements are covered with a layer of sealant.
In order to reliably seal the holes and prevent water from leaking during the emptying of the thicket, the applied composition must be given enough time for drying and hardening.
Before installing the bowl on a brick pedestal in place of contact with the supports are laying gaskets. Placing the container on the supports, using a level, check the horizontal position of the sides. Boards in the longitudinal direction should be strictly horizontal.
If the tank does not have special grooves around the perimeter of the borings for water flow, then in the transverse direction the horizon control should show some deviation. Then the bath should be installed so that the outer side was approximately 0.5 cm higher than the inner side adjacent to the wall of the fellow.This deviation will reduce or eliminate splashing on the floor.
Fastening the bowl to the walls of the bathroom
The edges of the bowl is placed as close as possible to the wall. To check the stability of the structure, take the edge of the bath and make several movements from side to side, as if trying to shake it. If, due to instability, the construction has moved, it is necessary to inspect the supports and, if necessary, place pieces of bricks under the bowl, securing the new parts with tile glue or cement mortar.
If desired, the sides of the structure are fixed with a metal profile, "planting" it on the dowels and screws. But most often the master is limited to filling the voids with tile glue or mortar. For greater strength, it is also possible to coat the side surfaces of the bath adjacent to the wall with tile adhesive. Such glue edging will seal the seams and create a strong “bath-wall” joint.
To make sure that the installation is correct, first fill the bowl completely with water, and then open the drain.Ideally, the water should leave quickly and freely, and no leaks should form in the area of the joints. If the water does not leave so quickly - there is a bias.
Finishing decoration of plumbing depends only on the interior of the room and the preferences of the master. As the lining is perfect:
- sheets of moisture resistant plasterboard;
- ceramic tiles or porcelain tiles;
- wall panels made of plastic or PVC material;
- ready decorative screen.
The only requirement for the facing material is that it is resistant to moisture.
The tile can be put on the same cement mortar or on a special tile adhesive. To increase the adhesion of the finishing material to the walls, the surface should be pretreated with diluted PVA and with the addition of sand.
It is allowed to use the bathroom as soon as the cement-sand mortar hardens. The waiting period can last from two to five days.
Construction of steel racks
The weight of steel plumbing, unlike cast-iron baths, is only about 50 kg. But the low weight of plumbing is a key cause and its instability. Included with the products are legs. Therefore, you can install the bowl in two ways:
- Only on brick supports without legs and additional frames.
- Combined installation, involving the use of both brick supports and legs of the product.
Supporting anchor points can be constructed by arranging the pier.
Determining what is better piers or supports, focus on the location of plumbing equipment. If the bath is adjacent to only one wall of the room - build a pier. If her bowl is limited to three walls of a bathroom, then brick columns are enough.
Preparation of necessary materials
From materials you need to purchase in advance:
- concrete brand M: 400;
- metal profile;
- water repellent impregnation;
- roll gerlen;
- tile adhesive
Gerlen is a plastic rolled material made of polyethylene foam based on bitumen sealant. The material perfectly warms steel.
Since a significant drawback of steel baths is their noisiness during the filling process, in order to reduce the noise, the craftsmen recommend foaming the outside of the bowls with foam. For foaming of the bath, an average of 1.5-2 bottles of 65 liters each goes.
Support legs for height increase
Often there is a desire to raise the bowl above the standard distance from its top to the leveled floor. This is the case when carrying out repairs, if a part of the floor that is free from plumbing is already equipped with a warm floor heating system. It is necessary if the builders made a mistake with the location of the drain or the owners want to slightly adjust the small height of the tank.
Planning to use the installation scheme on the raising columns, first of all screw the legs to the bottom of the bowl. For this purpose, the legs are inserted into a specially drilled hole and fixed with the help of connecting elements.
Having determined the place where the bath will be located, they start measuring plumbing. For this, the height of the space between the bottom of the bowl and the floor, as well as the width between the legs, are measured. Based on the measurements, outlines are made for brick supports.
The height of the racks is made such that the distance from the upper edge of the bath to the floor is the required number, see. Most often, additional one or two brick supports are sufficient.
The distance between the erected brick posts is determined by the same size between the bolted legs. But for steel plumbing, which differs with ease with flexibility, it is recommended to supplement the low columns with the above-described full brick supports in the middle of the tank.
The shape of the supports is made in accordance with the size of the bowl bottom.After all, the configuration presented in the sale of baths can be very diverse:
- oval and beveled;
- triangular under the corner model;
- rectangular with slightly rounded corners.
Brickwork supports perform on the same technology as in the construction of racks for cast-iron plumbing.
If the shape of the bottom of the bowl allows you to do the rack, the upper edge of which has not a semicircular, but a flat surface, to create a flat plane of the base, you can use moisture-resistant plywood. To do this, on top of the racks form a cement "pillow", the top layer of which lay pre-cut sheets of moisture-resistant plywood.
The bowl of the bath is installed on top of the constructed structure, as soon as the cement mortar of the supports acquires the necessary strength.
Frozen steel bowl
It is most convenient to blow the bath foam, turning it upside down. Before work the surface is wiped with a damp cloth or sponge. The foam is distributed around the perimeter of the bowl, gradually covering areas of 0.5 square meters.
Using the special gun when applying foam, it is possible to reduce a material consumption to one and a half times.With its help it is convenient to regulate the amount of incoming foam and the degree of its expansion.
Excess applied foam is not difficult to cut when it hardens, with the help of a construction knife. When processing the bottom of the bath, the installation site on the brick racks should be left unbuffered. This is due to the fact that over time, the foam can sink, and the bathroom will become less stable.
Spacing of spatial gaps
Having installed the bath on the supports and connecting the siphon and overflow / overflow to it, they proceed to the processing of spatial gaps.
To seal the cracks formed and improve the adhesion of the sides of the bath with cement mortar, the bricks are glued over with rolled gerlen. The tissue layer, which is part of gerlen, acts as a kind of compensator between the body of the bath and the cement mortar.
To eliminate air zones between the surfaces and better adhesion of materials, tile glue is applied to the interlayer in a single layer.It is easiest to close up small gaps with liquid cement diluted with tile glue.
To increase the reliability of adhesion between the bottom of the bathroom and the dried brickwork blowout foam. The joints between the edges of the bathroom, the decorative screen and the wall are sealed with a transparent sealant. After solidification, it will be almost invisible.
Features of the installation of acrylic bath
The installation process for acrylic baths is similar. Lightweight structures do not require the creation of a complex in the design of the supporting structure. The traditional version of the support frame for an acrylic bath is a flat pillow placed under the bottom and column supports mounted along the edges of the sides.
To create a frame support in accordance with the dimensions of the bath, outline the layout of the masonry. It is important to provide a centimeter gap between the sides of the bowl and the support. In places of junction to the wall it is convenient to use installation hooks. After solidification of the solution, the bath is placed inside the erected frame.The gaps between the erected frame and the outer walls of the bowl are filled with foam.
Conclusions and useful video on the topic
Tips for the construction of supports and installation of the bath:
Video review of the option of installing a bath on bricks:
How to foam a bath before installation:
In the device of the brick pillars and the frame is nothing complicated. Therefore, when installing a bath on bricks, you can use any of the methods described. The main thing - to strengthen the weak points of the bath, while creating a strong and durable support structure.